Happy Halloween!

I love Halloween. It is one of my favorite holidays. I love candy apples and pumpkin carving and Halloween parties and little kids trick-or-treating. I love the creativity and inhibition of dressing in costume. I love the once-a-year-it's-o.k. gorging on bad food.

Grenadians do not celebrate Halloween. But all the students from North America make up for it. The SO organization threw a great event for families today on campus. It included trick-or-treating, games, face painting, a bounce house, treats and a costume contest.

Liam's costume turned out really cute and easy - good thing I didn't attempt the lobster outfit. I threw together a last minute Gypsy ensemble for myself and C.J. came as a tired med student. He just finished a week of midterms this morning, so we were glad to have him along for the fun.

It was the perfect way to celebrate Liam's first Halloween.

The Puppy, ready for the big party

Not so scary witch and genie
Scary skeleton aka my buddy, Paul

The cutest little hula girl

Trick-or-treat!

Gypsy, puppy and ladybug
A rare smile caught on camera

Worn out from too much partying (and studying)

Costumes and sea moss

We went to St. George's today in search of supplies for Liam's Halloween costume. There is no Target here where I can just buy him a pre-made costume for $10.99 or believe me I'd be doing that.

There is also no Michael's or Hobby Lobby for the homemade variety. Which left me wondering if I would be able to find pipe cleaners, felt, red tubing, Velcro and red paper plates for the cute little lobster costume I wanted to make.

I was optimistic that I could piece something together. Life did go on before big box stores (really?), surely I could find the things on my list with just a few extra stops in the capitol city.

I decided to start at the fabric store, a logical place to look. I showed a worker in the store the picture of my perfect-for-the-island-oh-so-creative-do-it-myself costume. She gave me a little scowl and said she doubted I would find all those things here.

I didn't want to give up, but I realized this was going to take more effort than just a few stops. If the fabric store doesn't have pipe cleaners or felt, who would? Maybe the lobster costume was too ambitious for Grenada.

Luckily I had a simple Plan B, and I found everything I needed for that, so stay tuned for the "First Halloween" post.

I did have a successful visit to the market in St. George's. I bought mangoes, cucumbers, cinnamon, ginger and sea moss. That's right, sea moss. Moss that grows in the sea.

I got a lesson from one of the vendors on how to prepare it. Soak it in lime, boil it with cinnamon, strain it and add milk and sugar to it. Sounds delicious, don't you think?

A quick Internet search reveals that sea moss is actually very good for you and can be used for medicinal purposes. It makes a popular drink in the Caribbean, known for fixing all kinds of ailments such as infertility and depression, and can of course be mixed with rum.

Wait, who needs pipe cleaners, maybe I could die some sea moss and use it for lobster antennas.

Hitchhiker's guide to Grenada

I picked up a hitchhiker this morning.

Did you just get a mental image of a dirty, homeless man with a nappy sleeping bag rolled up under a worn out backpack? Some creepy loner on the highway that is very likely a murdering schizophrenic maniac?

Don't panic, it's not quit like that. My hitchhiker was a lovely young woman in a freshly pressed white shirt and jeans. And she was about six months pregnant. She waved me down at the bus stop on my way back from dropping C.J. off at school.

That may sound shocking, but Grenadians hitchhike all the time. Which gives you an idea of the relative safety of the island.

I don't think it even crosses their mind that this could be a dangerous thing, whereas in North America hitchhiking is now near the top of the list of "horribly risky and stupid things to do in this day and age," along with riding your bike without a helmet or not putting your child in a car seat (you guessed it, they don't do those things here either).

It's sort of refreshing, the "age of innocence" that persists here. It seems Grenadians are more trusting as a people. Like when you eat at a restaurant you practically have to tackle the waitress to pay your bill. They just assume you won't leave without paying.

On practically every corner here there is someone needing a ride. A lot of Grenadians do not have cars so they walk or take public transportation. They will hold their hand up when you drive by, which means they need a lift.

Being the cynical, leery American that I am I never pick anyone up. They could be a murderer! They could steal my car, slit my throat, kidnap me. No matter how illogical this seems, I can't help but think it every time I drive by someone on the road waving me down for a lift. It's a hard cultural shift to make - that hitchhiking is safe and routine.

But this morning, when I saw this pregnant girl standing out in the heat, I didn't think twice. I just stopped the car. I felt pretty confident she was not going to murder me. Having been pregnant in this tropical heat not so long ago, I didn't want to leave her stranded. She jumped right in, and I gave her a lift to a house just about a half mile from my own.

The fact that this young, vulnerable woman would take a ride from a perfect stranger tells you how acceptable this practice is here. Still, I was glad to keep her away from any creep that might have picked her up. I mean, anyone who picks up a hitchhiker is also potentially a murderer or kidnapper!

Flowers in bloom

It is no surprise there are many beautiful plants here that bloom year round. But at the beginning of rainy season back in June and August some plants really stepped it up.

Since we lived here through the first part of the year, which is dry season, we were able to witness the transformation (this totally escaped us our first semester). Not only did we get a gorgeous show of flowers, the fruit trees were literally dripping with their harvest - mangoes, papayas, limes, grapefruit, breadfruit and bananas to name a few.

At last, I am sharing a few photos from those months. Since then, most of the fruit trees have gone barren and some of the flowering plants have lost their brilliance. But there are still plenty of perennial blossoms to enjoy on our walks.

I thought this was called "bird-of-paradise" but some Internet research identifies this as "false bird-of-paradise" or "lobster claw"

Tried to find a name for this but no luck - anybody know? [update 10.30.09, this is an Alamanda, thank you, Anna!]

This might be in the Hibiscus family

Bougainvillea - the national flower; appropriate since this stuff is everywhere and one of those that blooms year round

A close up - unfortunately, this does not keep well in a vase with water; nature intended it to be enjoyed only on the vine

Canna lily?

Papaya tree

Papaya - also known as paw paw

I am fascinated by all the colors on these leaves - variety of Croton plant, maybe?

I think this is commonly called a Flamboyant Tree - these were in bloom only briefly but were ubiquitous and absolutely stunning

Tree full of ripe mangoes

The best mangoes I've ever eaten - picked them up off the ground right around the corner from our house

Authentic Grenada

I just finished reading An Embarrassment of Mangoes by Ann Vanderhoof. It is an autobiographical tale of Ann and her husband's two year sale from Toronto to the Caribbean and back.

I picked it up thinking it would be an interesting look into the life of sailors, which it is. I didn't realize that Ann and her husband spent the better part of a winter anchored off the shores of Grenada and a good portion of her book is about their adventures here.

She beautifully and accurately describes riding on the reggae bus, shopping in the market, visiting pristine beaches and attending Carnival in Grenada.

She also adventurously tackles preparing many of the local foods such as saltfish, christophene (squash-like vegetable), macaroni pie (a favorite here, sort of like mac-n-cheese), breadfruit (starchy fruit prepared like a potato) and coo-coo (Caribbean polenta).

I learned a few things about my island from reading this book and that annoys me. I should not be finding out about where I live from a white, Jewish, Canadian lady. I should be out making these discoveries for myself.

Here she is getting personal cooking lessons from the locals while I'm paying an embarrassing amount for imported spaghetti sauce at IGA. I have decided my life here is a sham, and I am now on a personal quest to experience authentic Grenada at every opportunity.

I was lamenting the "my life is a sham" point to C.J., but he wasn't buying it. In his stern woman-you-are-acting-crazy voice he said, "You had a baby here. How much more authentic can you get?"

When I was carrying on about this at the pool last week Marguerite reminded me that it must be tough when the big dilemma in my life right now is should I, or should I not try to cook saltfish at home?

So my audience hasn't been too receptive. But I pressed on, blabbing to Karen and Faith over coffee Sunday morning that we must get out and explore. We must experience real Grenada every chance we can. We need to try local restaurants, listen to the local music, talk to the local people. Down with imported goods from IGA! Yes, to soca music (loud Caribbean party music) and hairy root vegetables like dasheen!

I'm not sure if they bought it. Again, isn't paying the electric bill in EC, living with an indefatigable ant population in your kitchen and raising a child here enough?

And then, fortuitously, Adrea called Sunday afternoon to see if I wanted to check out a new beach at Westerhall Point. My first thought: "Oh geez, I have to get the baby ready and pack the bag and slather on sunscreen - so much work." And then: "No! What was I just saying?? I must try everything while I have the chance!"

So off we went to explore a new part of the island. We arrived to find a shaded grassy hill sloping down to the water's edge and a beautiful black sand beach. And several locals enjoying their Sunday.

When the opportunity to talk with a local came up, I happily chatted with him. I asked where I could buy some fresh lobster and was rewarded with directions to a rum shack where a fishing boat comes in every day at noon.

I learned that several of the men who were swimming quite a distance from shore were diving for sea creatures to cook for dinner. And when that dinner - which was cooking in a huge pot over an open fire near the beach - was ready, my local friend came over to offer us a taste.

At first glance, the assortment of spiny and fleshy chunks of sea life floating in broth inside a severed 2-liter Coke bottle might not be something I would try under normal circumstances. But since I had just read Ann's book and refused to be outdone, I did not hesitate when he offered me a bite.

This is a piece of sea turtle. Endangered? I hope not.
This is what I tried - a piece of octopus. You can also see lobster and green bananas (similar to a plantain) at the bottom of the "bowl."

I know it doesn't look appetizing, but it was delicious. I'm not kidding. It was perfectly seasoned and flavorful and the octopus had a nice, chewy consistency. Faith and Craig tried some too and will both confirm it was quite tasty. And I left there feeling satisfied that I had not closed my mind to this opportunity but instead enthusiastically tried something authentically Grenadian.

So I am going to recommend reading An Embarrassment of Mangoes. For my island friends, you will identify with the vivid descriptions of life here and feel appreciative of the adventure waiting at your doorstep.

Some things that we see as foreign or inconvenient, others will sail around the world for. The book also includes several recipes so you could actually try to cook some of those unidentifiable things sold in the market (you can pick up a copy of the book in the bookstore at Grand Anse mall).

To my friends and family in the states, this is a quick and enjoyable story that provides some excellent descriptions of the country where we live. And if you've ever considered selling it all and moving onto a boat, you will get a fascinating and eye-opening account of the dangers and challenges of sailing.

The games we play

...are not of the adult persuasion anymore. In fact, they are downright childish.

These days we get a big thrill out of making Liam laugh. Discovering something new that he thinks is funny is such a joy. We will do just about anything to hear his happy screeches and giggles.

Like the other night when I realized a bath towel can transform into a sweet game of peek-a-boo. The excitement on his face is contagious. Just try not to smile.

Tufton Hall Watefall

Sometimes I have an especially fun adventure here and forget to blog about it. And then a whole year goes by. And I look through some old pictures and am reminded of that great adventure. And I figure, I should share this with the folks back home, even if it is a little late.

So, in October 2008 I went on a hike on the Northeast side of the island to locate the tallest waterfall in Grenada, the Tufton Hall Waterfall. According to one Web site, "The only way to visit the waterfall is to hike for approximately 3 hours through technical terrain."

Said Web site recommends that you hire a guide to take you there, since there is not a well-marked trail leading to the falls.

Hmm, that would have been nice to know. Of course, I did not read this Web site before I went on the hike. I was new to the island and looking for any reason to get out of the tiny apartment we were living in. I had some new friends who invited me along, and I thought I was up for it.

I had done a hike a few weeks earlier on a well marked trail without a problem. I was pregnant, but not really showing yet and still feeling physically agile.

Some of these friends are of the hardy male persuasion, and I should have known we were in trouble when they brought along their cutlasses and rope and were confident they would find the falls even though none of them had actually been on this hike before.

What followed was some aimless wondering through a tropical rain forest searching for any sign of a trail; some impromptu repelling down a tall, slippery slope; and a long, muddy scramble through a wet, rocky river bed.

It was a little more physical than I had anticipated, and we never did find that waterfall. But the journey deep into the lush, dense jungle surrounded by tall, green mountain peaks was a unique and thrilling experience.

Hiking into the jungle - still dry and naively thinking we know where we are going

Now where is that trail - a few of us take a break while our fearless leaders scout

Hey, if we repel down this hill we'll get to the riverbed, who needs a trail?? (yes, that is me clinging to the rope)

Phew, we made it down safely - Craig, Pauline, Brian and Jen

And now for some sliding and clawing our way along the riverbed

No one is dry at this point
But what a gorgeous setting

After several hours we had not made it to the falls and did not know if we ever would. We were pretty deep into the forest. A light drizzle was coating our already soaking wet bodies. The sound of running water and a few tropical birds accompanied us. It was an eerie yet magical feeling, being so far away from any civilization, on a remote island, in the middle of a vast ocean. Makes you feel pretty insignificant.

At some point it began to seriously rain and the water started rushing faster. We were all looking at each other thinking the same thing - flash flood. Isn't this the setting for the perfect tragedy?? Seven nice ex-pats on a seemingly innocent hike are washed to sea never to be heard from again?? Time to turn back and hustle down the river as fast as we can. That waterfall is not going anywhere, we can see it another day.

Of course, after that trip I decided no more hiking for me and since Liam was born I've been a little busy. But the group did return in May to try again. This time C.J. went along. I was happy for him to go, this is the kind of adventure he lives for.

He loved every minute and they did make it to the falls. Turns out we were not that far away the first time. However, again it was raining and again no one wanted to linger and risk getting swept away. Lucky C.J., he got the coveted photo with the illusive waterfall.

At last - they made it

In the words of our friend Leslie who was on the second hike and took this photo:

"This is the only picture we have of the falls. Shortly after this pic as C.J. is telling a story about some vet students that had to be rescued after a flash flood...it began to rain harder. No, actually buckets. The falls turned muddy brown. And when a rock went flying over our heads that would have taken any one of us out had it hit us, I decided it was time to get the heck out of dodge."

I look back on this hike fondly now, since I didn't twist an ankle or cause other bodily harm to myself or Liam. This hike was probably one of those once-in-a-lifetime moments for each of us. Who knows the next time we'll hike through a tropical rain forest again.

Price check

Today I was a little annoyed about living in the Caribbean.

I went to the computer store to buy a black ink cartridge for our printer. It is the HP 21 printer cartridge, listed at $14.97 on Walmart.com. I paid $96EC, which is roughly the equivalent of $40 US.

Ouch.

I also paid our electric bill today. Since Liam was born we run the air conditioner pretty much all the time. The bill was $720EC or about $270US.

That's about $100 more than we paid for electricity at our slightly larger home in Texas with a 20-year-old air conditioning unit.

Double ouch.

Since I was feeling sensitive about the money flying out of my wallet, I took the time to observe that several things at the grocery store were exorbitantly priced also - shaving cream ($6US), cereal ($6US), salsa ($5US), diapers (I can't even talk about it), to name a few.

I usually don't obsess too much about the money. Some things aren't really an option, like printing out school notes, so I just accept it as the higher cost of living here.

But today I was feeling the pain. I bought some local lettuce for the equivalent of $1US and four mangoes for a mere $2US. But that didn't exactly balance things out.

The moral of this story: it is not cheap to live on an island, especially if you insist on buying imported goods. We are not exactly living in a hut catching our own fish and plucking coconuts off the trees.

Old consumer habits die hard and foreign goods aren't cheap around here. Tough lessons for anyone used to shopping in America.

At least I didn't buy the People Magazine I was eyeballing in the check-out line at IGA. $20EC, or $8US for one magazine. I think that's one thing I can live without.

Why did the chicken cross the road?

To get to the fire station in St. George's.

Which is where I had to pick up my car after it got towed from in front of the pediatrician's office last week. It was in a parking spot that unbeknown to me, was illegal. I've parked there about seven times before. And there is not a sign that says no parking. And I've seen other people park there before and in other spots that are definately designated no parking.

I almost peed my pants when I came around the corner after our appointment and it was gone. Same for my friend Lauren who rode along with me so her son could also get his check up.

Thankfully, the receptionist at the doctor's office knew what had happened and with a quick phone call located it at the fire station not far away. And then, wouldn't you know it, neighbor Karen just happened to be there for an appointment for her son. So she was able to give us a ride to the fire station (neighbors saving the day, again).

$125EC later we were on our way, only half an hour behind schedule. A small price to pay on foreign soil, I would say. I mean, they could have charged me five times that if they wanted to. I wasn't about to argue.

I was just relieved to get the car back and be on my way. But not before I got a quick photo of these chickens running around in the parking lot. I practically ran one over in my zeal to get home.

Recharged

Enough of that "dear diary" business. Sorry for using the blog as therapy. If you made it through that last post please send me a bill to the address at the right.

After dropping Liam at Mother's Day Out, I did go to La Luna and get that massage. Of course, it was wonderful (thank you, Nana!). I highly recommend it to all you locals. Afterward, I sat on the beach for awhile and enjoyed the view.

Here's the part that makes the cold water in the kitchen and driving on the left side of the road and no milk at the grocery store all worth it.

Beautiful tropical plants

The Caribbean Sea

Serenity

Another day in paradise

View of BBC Beach in the foreground and St. George's in the distance